Aix-en-Provence

Aix (pronounced ex) was founded in 123 BC by the Romans for its location near hot and cold springs. The Roman city was built with thermal baths, ponds and pools which cooled down the narrow lanes and squares where public and religious landmarks stood. Some of the fountains still bear the hallmarks of Ancient Rome.

If you stop by the local Office de Tourisme you can pick up a walking map showing the location of the city’s squares and fountains. It’s a great way to explore the old town. Not all of the fountains have running water but some do. We assume this is to conserve water as the hot temperatures continue. It’s 30 degrees today, it feels like the thermometer might be permanently stuck there.

The walking tour begins at the Place General de Gaulle, situated at the bottom of the city’s main street, Cours Mirabeau in the heart of Aix. The city’s largest fountain “Le Fontaine de la Rotunde” sits in the middle of the square. It was built in 1860 during the second empire under Napoleon 111.

It was market day today and stalls selling mostly clothing lined the Cours Mirabeau . There was also a flower market and food market held in other locations in the old town. By 1:30 pm the vendors had packed up what remained and headed out of the old town leaving no trace behind.

More fountains…

And then of course there are the churches. So much history and artwork that has survived through the ages. In Aix, the Cathedral St. Sauveur, built and re-built from the 12th until the 19th century, is worth the visit. It has Roman columns, part of a baptistery from a 6th century Christian Church and impressive artwork. It is a national monument of France.

The current existing Hotel de Ville was built between 1655 and 1678.

We have received a warm reception by the French people everywhere we have been. This despite one of our local guides in Avignon sharing that the French are not known for being polite. We’ve heard many “Pardons” accompanied by warm smiles in our travels but today our experience differed. As we interacted with some of the locals they seem to have a bit of an edge. We had some curt responses from vendors at the market and a boulangerie. Then there was the subtle “pffft” from a stranger accompanied by a look. She was clearly annoyed by this tourist taking a photo. But it was the elderly street musician who smiled brightly and asked for money only to be told “Sorry I have no cash” that drove it home. He responded with a “PFFFT” that he literally spat out with so much passion that I laughed out loud.


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